The morning dawned fair. We were all feeling a bit tired after our paddle to Dun the previous evening...
...so we decided to spend the morning exploring the village.
We waited to meet the National Trust for Scotland warden at the pier head and he introduced us to the island.
We started at the feather store...
...then moved to the gun that was installed after a German U boat had shelled the
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Evolution of the species on Boreray.
After sweeping round Stac an Armin we aproached Boreray from the NE. What a superlative sight! It was like a great stegosaurus rising up from the ocean. We half expected to see pterodactyls swooping round its rocky pinnacles...
...but they had all evolved into gannets!
Murdani now took the Cuma through the narrow gap between Boreray...
...and a pair of small unnamed stacs which lie between
...but they had all evolved into gannets!
Murdani now took the Cuma through the narrow gap between Boreray...
...and a pair of small unnamed stacs which lie between
Crossing to St Kilda, the islands at the edge of the World.
The morning of Sunday 12th June dawned fair and after an extensive Cuma breakfast, we took some air upon the deck to allow our stomachs to settle. Ken explained to the others how he had managed to hold on to the toast rack with the very last slice of toast!
Murdani listened intently to the weather forecast. It was not looking good at the end of the week and the wind this evening was forecast to
Murdani listened intently to the weather forecast. It was not looking good at the end of the week and the wind this evening was forecast to
Northern England & IOM, Jim Krawiecki
The latest in the Pesda sea kayaking guides to the UK coastline has just been published. Jim Krawiecki's Northern England & IOM has been four year's in gestation and the wait has been worthwhile. Jim writes in a fluid and concise style and the pages ooze the detail which comes from the author's familiarity and enthusiasm for the area. There are 50 full routes spread over 267 colour pages. These
Sandy Robson sets off to retrace 1930's voyage by kayak from Germany to Australia
Sandy Robson has set off on the first leg of a sea kayaking voyage from Germany to Australia. She will need to return to Australia and work between each stage but hopes to complete the trip in five years.
She hopes to retrace the amazing voyage by Oskar Speck from 1932 to 1939. He set off in the Depression looking for work. By the time he arrived in Australia WW2 had broken out and he was
She hopes to retrace the amazing voyage by Oskar Speck from 1932 to 1939. He set off in the Depression looking for work. By the time he arrived in Australia WW2 had broken out and he was
If it was good enough for a Royal to kip down, it'll be good enough for us!
By the time we arrived at Dougarie estate boathouse, it was 18:25 and pouring with rain.
We continued south and thankfully the rain stopped an hour later.
We now set across the broad expanse of Machrie Bay. We were bound for the headland below Torr Righ Mor, still some 6km distant.
As we approached the headland, the setting sun lit it in a last blaze of sunshine.
From the rocks below Torr
We continued south and thankfully the rain stopped an hour later.
We now set across the broad expanse of Machrie Bay. We were bound for the headland below Torr Righ Mor, still some 6km distant.
As we approached the headland, the setting sun lit it in a last blaze of sunshine.
From the rocks below Torr
Away with the fairies and an unconformity on Arran!
Ahead of us, the Cock of Arran suddenly emerged into the sunshine from the thick mist of early morning.
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
Eking out a living and doing their pan in, on the north shore.
The day dawned misty but still on the north shore of Arran.
We had camped on the hillside above the beach. The banks of this stream were bursting with primroses.
We soon broke camp and proceeded along the wild coast. On the north facing slopes above us, we could just make out runrigs, a sign of ancient cultivation.
We came to Laggan Cottage which is a locked bothy belonging to the North Arran
We had camped on the hillside above the beach. The banks of this stream were bursting with primroses.
We soon broke camp and proceeded along the wild coast. On the north facing slopes above us, we could just make out runrigs, a sign of ancient cultivation.
We came to Laggan Cottage which is a locked bothy belonging to the North Arran
Ailsa calling!
On the way back from Ailsa Craig, Phil uncharacteristically fell behind,
He had some trouble with broaching as he had put all his gear in the front hatch and a Quest does not like being nose heavy! John very kindly stayed with him and gave words of encouragement. John Willacy is a true gentleman and it was our great pleasure to spend the day with him.
The 14km crossing passed all too soon and
He had some trouble with broaching as he had put all his gear in the front hatch and a Quest does not like being nose heavy! John very kindly stayed with him and gave words of encouragement. John Willacy is a true gentleman and it was our great pleasure to spend the day with him.
The 14km crossing passed all too soon and
A little rusty on Ailsa Craig.
From the shore of Ailsa Craig, we made our way up past the now solar powered (2001) and automated (1990) lighthouse.
The lighthouse was completed in 1886 by Thomas and David Stevenson. It originally had 3 keepers and was an oil burning light. A little railway was used to haul cans of oil up from the jetty. Unfortunately the bogey was now overturned and rusting away. The railway was also used by
The lighthouse was completed in 1886 by Thomas and David Stevenson. It originally had 3 keepers and was an oil burning light. A little railway was used to haul cans of oil up from the jetty. Unfortunately the bogey was now overturned and rusting away. The railway was also used by
Keeping fast company on the crossing to Ailsa Craig.
Last Sunday, Phil, Tony, Jennifer and I met at Lendalfoot on the Ayrshire coast. We were bound for Ailsa Craig, a huge monolith of granite, which is situated at the entrance to the Firth of Clyde, some 14km offshore.
The staff of seakayakphoto.com have a new honorary member. John Willacy is the designer of the Rockpool Taran, which has something of a reputation as a speed machine, especially
The staff of seakayakphoto.com have a new honorary member. John Willacy is the designer of the Rockpool Taran, which has something of a reputation as a speed machine, especially
Ferry gliding across the Kyles of Bute.
Night was drawing in as we left Eilean Dubh heading for the East Kyle. We took a last look down the West Kyle before we entered the tidal channel that runs through the Burnt Islands. The tide had turned against us, so we ferry glided from one island to the other, making use of the eddies. In the gloom of the twilight the scene was quite different...
...from the misty sunshine we had seen on the
...from the misty sunshine we had seen on the
Death in Ardlamont.
We paddled towards the mouth of Loch Fyne along a raised beach until we came to...
...Kilbride Bay. The sad remains of a dead whale lay beached on the shore. The smell of death hung so heavy in the air that we could not approach closer to investigate its species. We paddled over huge detatched ribs with flesh still attached, that lay under the clear waters below its final resting place.
The
...Kilbride Bay. The sad remains of a dead whale lay beached on the shore. The smell of death hung so heavy in the air that we could not approach closer to investigate its species. We paddled over huge detatched ribs with flesh still attached, that lay under the clear waters below its final resting place.
The
Less fond of basking sharks than otters.
We paddled down the Machars peninsula and across Monreith Bay. Phil's silhouette was ringed by the bright water of Luce Bay.
Crazy drystone dykes marched across the Galloway hillsides and raised beaches. I have already mentioned that Port William was planned by Sir William Maxwell. One of his descendants, Gavin Maxwell, fisherman, turned naturalist, then author, was brought up in Elrig, just
Crazy drystone dykes marched across the Galloway hillsides and raised beaches. I have already mentioned that Port William was planned by Sir William Maxwell. One of his descendants, Gavin Maxwell, fisherman, turned naturalist, then author, was brought up in Elrig, just
A peculiarly cold form of burnishment, in Port William.
The tide was ebbing fast from the little harbour of Port William. The village was planned and built in the 1770's by Sir William Maxwell of Monreith.
The harbour is one of very few on the west of Galloway and like most in the area it dries out. Although the sun was now rising in the sky, the roofs of the village houses were still covered in frost.
Our departure was watched over by "the Man"...
The harbour is one of very few on the west of Galloway and like most in the area it dries out. Although the sun was now rising in the sky, the roofs of the village houses were still covered in frost.
Our departure was watched over by "the Man"...
Taking the Sound of Mull to the Next World.
The second day of our Morvern trip dawned still and calm but the peace of early morning (and our slumbers) was shattered...
...by the MV Clansman. She is the noisiest of the Calmac ferries at the best of times, as she burns the heaviest grade of fuel oil in her diesels. However, her crankshafts were just about to fail catastrophically and so the decibels this morning were deafening.
...by the MV Clansman. She is the noisiest of the Calmac ferries at the best of times, as she burns the heaviest grade of fuel oil in her diesels. However, her crankshafts were just about to fail catastrophically and so the decibels this morning were deafening.
Clyde built: tough ships, tough people.
From Dumbarton we set off on the final leg of our Clyde paddle to Port Glasgow in a snow storm. At times the snow was falling so heavily that there was near zero visibility and we lost sight of the channel markers, even though they were only 600m apart. We were rather anxious not to be run over by a ship in the night, so we navigated by keeping to the north of the channel markers, then crossed
Bowling down the Clyde in the Comet's wake.
From Erskine we crossed to the north bank of the Clyde yet again. In the mid distance, Dumbarton Rock stood out darkly against the snowy mountains of Argyll beyond.
We were bound for Bowling at the entrance to the Forth and Clyde canal. The canal opened in 1790. We had to keep a high ferry angle as the ebb tide was fair bowling us along.
There are two sea lock gates but this one is no longer
We were bound for Bowling at the entrance to the Forth and Clyde canal. The canal opened in 1790. We had to keep a high ferry angle as the ebb tide was fair bowling us along.
There are two sea lock gates but this one is no longer
Life and death on the Clyde.
From the former Yarrow's shipyard at Scotstoun we paddled to Renfrew on the south bank. This is one of the oldest ferry points on the Clyde. Higher up the river we had already encountered the old chain driven "Renfrew", which served the route as a vehicle ferry from 1952 until 1984. Vehicle traffic had steadily fallen since the construction of the Clyde tunnel upstream in 1963/64 and the Erskine
A tale of two Clyde Titans; one is still standing.
Downstream of the River Kelvin the south bank of the Clyde is dominated by the cranes of the Govan shipyard. The north bank is crowded by modern high rise flats that tower above Meadowside Quay. They have replaced the four huge brick built grain elevators that were built here from 1914 to 1968 to store grain imported from the American prairies.
The shipyard at Govan was originally Fairfield's
The shipyard at Govan was originally Fairfield's
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