We were unable to land at Gylen Castle as there was some surf breaking on the steep rocky beach so we carried on towards the south west point of Kerrera. The crashing of the waves on the dark rock of Kerrera was the only sound.
On the way, we passed interesting natural castles of conglomerate rock sitting on top of what looked like a layer of dsark basaltic rock.
The mountains of Mull came in
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Better days in the Sound of Kerrera
This was the view from the sea front at Oban. In the near distance the island of Kerrera shelters Oban from the open waters of the Firth of Lorn. In the distance, the mountains of Mull were topped by a snow covered Ben More, at 966m, the highest mountain in the Inner Hebrides.
A front was rapidly crossing the sky from the SE...
...as we crossed Oban Bay to Kerrera.
Ahead a monument to David
A front was rapidly crossing the sky from the SE...
...as we crossed Oban Bay to Kerrera.
Ahead a monument to David
Sea kayaking round Morvern
A three day, 114km paddle round the Morvern peninsula via Loch Linnhe, the Sound of Mull and Loch Sunart.
Sunset in Loch Drumbuie, an offshoot of Loch Sunart.
Tides:
Lynn of Morvern/Loch Linnhe
NE flood -0545 HW Oban ((+0110 HW Dover)
SW ebb +0025 Oban (-0505 HW Dover)
There are some peculiarities in the tides here.
A narrow stream of the flood tide entering the Lynn of Morvern hits the
Sunset in Loch Drumbuie, an offshoot of Loch Sunart.
Tides:
Lynn of Morvern/Loch Linnhe
NE flood -0545 HW Oban ((+0110 HW Dover)
SW ebb +0025 Oban (-0505 HW Dover)
There are some peculiarities in the tides here.
A narrow stream of the flood tide entering the Lynn of Morvern hits the
All the essential sea kayaking elements round Morvern.
As we approached the head of Loch Sunart we came to the Liddesdale narrows. It was spring tides and the ebb rate runs out at 3.5 knots. We arrived at slack HW and negotiated entrance to the inner loch with minimal effort.
Garbh Bheinn (Garven) 885m dominated the view to the head of the loch. It is one of the highest mountains in Ardgour which borders the Morvern peninsula to the north.
The wind
Garbh Bheinn (Garven) 885m dominated the view to the head of the loch. It is one of the highest mountains in Ardgour which borders the Morvern peninsula to the north.
The wind
Umbrellas in a sunny Loch Sunart.
After lunch we continued westwards, deep into Loch Sunart. As we passed Rubha Aird Earnaich we were passed...
...by the Ronja Pioneer, a live fish carrier, which was making her way up the Loch to a fish farm. Once she had loaded with fish she would make for the fish processing plant in Loch Creran.
A nice westerly breeze got up and I soon hoisted my Flat Earth sail.
Not to be outdone, David
...by the Ronja Pioneer, a live fish carrier, which was making her way up the Loch to a fish farm. Once she had loaded with fish she would make for the fish processing plant in Loch Creran.
A nice westerly breeze got up and I soon hoisted my Flat Earth sail.
Not to be outdone, David
A post prandial doze under the ancient oak woods of Ardnamurchan.
From Loch Teacuis we crossed to the north shore of Loch Sunart...
...and landed at a lovely little beach under the ancient oak woods of Ardnamurchan.
David was a little too keen to land and he fell out of his cockpit, getting soaked in the process!
While David got changed, Phil and I started our luncheon. Out came oatcakes and a selection of fine mature cheeses, though we left the runnier
...and landed at a lovely little beach under the ancient oak woods of Ardnamurchan.
David was a little too keen to land and he fell out of his cockpit, getting soaked in the process!
While David got changed, Phil and I started our luncheon. Out came oatcakes and a selection of fine mature cheeses, though we left the runnier
Misty Morven morning.
We awoke on a comfortable meadow of grass by the shores of Loch Drumbuie.
A light breeze meant that there was not a single midge to disturb the morning.
There are two kayaking schools. Those that carry their kayaks right up to the tent, regardless how far the tent is from the shore, and those that abandon their kayaks just above the high water mark. We are definitely in the second school.
I
A light breeze meant that there was not a single midge to disturb the morning.
There are two kayaking schools. Those that carry their kayaks right up to the tent, regardless how far the tent is from the shore, and those that abandon their kayaks just above the high water mark. We are definitely in the second school.
I
A banquet in Loch Drumbuie!
We had now left the Sound of Mull and were paddling east into Loch Sunart. From a line between Ardnamurchan Point to Mull, Loch Sunart winds for 45 km, deep into the heart of the west coast of Scotland. It forms the northern boundary of the Morvern peninsula.
Mist was gathering over the Ardnamurchan hills at sunset.
We landed at several little bays on the south shore of Loch Sunart but all were
Mist was gathering over the Ardnamurchan hills at sunset.
We landed at several little bays on the south shore of Loch Sunart but all were
A barren point and fateful decision.
We set off from Tobermory, past the RNLI Severn class lifeboat Elizabeth Fairlie Ramsay, to cross the Sound of Mull for the second time that day. We were bound for Auliston Point, the NW tip of Morvern.
Rubha nan Gall lighthouse stands at the NW entrance to the Sound of Mull with the Ardnamurchan peninsula behind.The lighthouse was built in 1857 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes once
Rubha nan Gall lighthouse stands at the NW entrance to the Sound of Mull with the Ardnamurchan peninsula behind.The lighthouse was built in 1857 by David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes once
A series of juxtapositions in the Sound of Mull.
North of Lochaline, the coastline of Morvern becomes much gentler and is backed by large forestry plantations. It was to here the the last few St Kildans were evacuated in 1930. Those that were able worked in the forests. what a juxtaposition a St Kildan in a forest in Morvern! They had come from an island with no trees!
We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde
We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde
Taking the Sound of Mull to the Next World.
The second day of our Morvern trip dawned still and calm but the peace of early morning (and our slumbers) was shattered...
...by the MV Clansman. She is the noisiest of the Calmac ferries at the best of times, as she burns the heaviest grade of fuel oil in her diesels. However, her crankshafts were just about to fail catastrophically and so the decibels this morning were deafening.
...by the MV Clansman. She is the noisiest of the Calmac ferries at the best of times, as she burns the heaviest grade of fuel oil in her diesels. However, her crankshafts were just about to fail catastrophically and so the decibels this morning were deafening.
Seakayakers, gypsies and bothy dwellers on Morvern.
This was a memorable trip that took place early in the month of June. Our aim was to circumnavigate the Morvern peninsula in western Scotland. It is very nearly an island being nearly surrounded by Loch Sunart to the north, the Sound of Mull to the Sw and Loch Linnhe to the SE. Only 11km of land lie between the head of Loch Sunart and Inversanda Bay on Loch Linnhe. We left a shuttle at the public
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