A big cave and big appetites at Kildonan, Arran

From the sadly deserted beach at Cleit Shore we sped past huge boulder beaches until a dramatic change in the landscape announced our arrival at Bennan Head, which marks the southern tip of Arran.

Just offshore lies Pladda which is the second biggest of Arran's three satellite isles: Holy Island, then Pladda, then tiny Hamilton Isle.

We were sailing and paddling  at 9-10km per hour and David

An early supper with the Twelve Apostles

Upon leaving Loch Ranza, a pesky head wind got up and as we were by now getting hungry (it was past midday)...

...we were delighted to come across the Catacol Bay Hotel. It enjoys a magnificent situation under Meall nan Damh (570m) but it looked a bit run down. However we were cold and hungry...

...so we landed on the awkward stony beach and made our way up to the hotel.

The welcome was warm,

Ferry gliding across the Kyles of Bute.

Night was drawing in as we left Eilean Dubh heading for the East Kyle. We took a last look down the West Kyle before we entered the tidal channel that runs through the Burnt Islands. The tide had turned against us, so we ferry glided from one island to the other, making use of the eddies. In the gloom of the twilight the scene was quite different...

...from the misty sunshine we had seen on the

We came to Kames in the Kyles of Bute.

 Rounding Ardlamont Point, we left Loch Fyne and came to the sheltered waters of the Kyles of Bute.

Unlike the rugged west coast of the Cowal peninsula, the countryside was much gentler, fertile farms and woodlands came right down to the shore.

We arrived at the settlement of Kames and  a large sign caught our attention...

...so we decided to land and investigate further.

On the way up to the

Mines a bacon butty in Lochaline!

As the flood tide carried us up the Sound of Mull we came to the little village of Lochaline, which nestles on the west side of a narrow inlet that is only 90m wide.

 The in going tide carried us through to Loch Aline at 7km/hr.

You need to be careful to keep out of the way of shipping in this very narrow and tidal channel. The Mull ferry, MV Loch Fyne passes through it nearly 30 times per day

Ice cold in Dunure

After leaving the Heads of Ayr, the coastline swings round to the SW and we caught our first glimpse of Ailsa Craig.

We then came to Dunure, our second castle of the day, which like the first, was perched right on the edge of a cliff.

We landed within the little harbour below the castle.

In the summer it is full of recreational boats but these two swans had it pretty much to themselves. The

The Oystercatcher, Otter Ferry, Loch Fyne.

On our return to Otter Ferry with the shuttle car from Portavadie we could not help but notice that the Oystercatcher was open.We enjoyed some excellent Guinness (half pints, since we would both be driving within the hour) in the cozy surroundings but noticed that everyone else was sitting outside.We decided to join them for our meal......and we enjoyed it thoroughly......while watching a hazy

A unobstructed view thanks to midges and shaggy dogs.

We passed by the south coast of Easdale......on our approach......to the little harbour at Ellenabeich, which nestles below the rocky slopes of Dun Mor, on the Island of Seil.We called in at the Oyster Brewery Bar Restaurant for a Guinness and some excellent haddock and chips. Despite being crowded when we arrived, we got the best seats. We are not sure if it was the coincidental arrival of the

An oasis of refreshment and welcome at Colintraive

The Kyles of Bute between the Cowal peninsula and the island of Bute are great sea kayaking waters.The icing on the cake is the Colintraive Hotel which is just beside the ferry terminal on the Cowal side. I first visited this oasis of refreshment on a yacht in 1977. Last September we returned to see if the years had been kind to it.Just inside, there was an impressive menu on the wall. Sadly due

Clear skies over Gigha.

The forecast for mainland Scotland was not looking good; with the possibility of torrential rain and thunderstorms but lightish winds. We looked west to Gigha, which is a beautiful low lying isle of the west coast of the Mull of Kintyre. I reckoned it would not have enough area to create a thermal uprising for a thunder cloud.Donald had been going to head up to the far north west but had been

Sea kayaking hardship in Loch Fyne.

There is an excellent pub with fine food in Furnace but it was only 16:00hrs and so we decided to cross to east shore of Loch Fyne. David and I soon left Phil behind as we set off on a close reach across the loch.Unfortunately we could not point as high as we would have liked so we dropped sails and prepared for a windward slog.Phil was soon nowhere in sight, far behind and downwind of us. Away

No otters at Otter Ferry, Loch Fyne!

David, Phil and I arrived at Otter Ferry which is about half way up Loch Fyne, one of Scotland's longest sea Lochs at the head of the Firth of Clyde. There is an excellent pub here just by the sea shore.We were welcomed by the pipping of the resident oyster catchers at the end of the old pier.Otter does not refer to the furry mammal but to "oitir" a long spit of shingle that extends for a long

Nae man can tether Time nor Tide...

The bar in the Dunure Inn was indeed open......so we decided to see in the New Year with a glass or so of frothing blackcurrant juice, which is very good for you."My, that was awfie tasty for a health drink, I think I'll have another! "As they say in Ayrshire, "Nae man can tether Time nor Tide" so we left the warmth of the inn in exchange for the cold, grey, dying hours of New Year's Day. From

An opportunity too good to miss, in Dunure.

We pressed on in a southerly direction until the great monolith of Ailsa Craig hove into sight.A few ripples appeared on the water and out towards Ailsa Craig......the horizon began to look lumpy.Time to seek shelter in Dunure harbour......where you can see swans and goodness gracious me, what's that? A pub open on New Year's day? Now there's an opportunity!

The Boathouse, Kingairloch, Morvern

It always amuses me when I see people packing food and drink for their first sea kayaking expedition to Scotland's wonderful west coast. They imagine that such a magnificent, primeval landscape will be as a desert, with little opportunity for resupply or refreshment. But in truth, there chinks in the landscape's armour, little oases, like this one at Kingairloch at the head of Loch a' Choire.