Ailsa sunset.

It is always sad to leave Ailsa Craig and its teeming bird colonies. Mostly we don't look back...

 ...mainly because the return involves crossing a busy shipping channel. We stopped to let MV Johanna Desiree pass in front of us. She was bound from Ayr to Santander at 10.8 knots. Behind us, the P&O Express from Larne to Troon passed at a faster 30.6 knots!

 As the rock slowly receded...

 ...the

The Sound of Tomorrow, Islay.

Port Askaig on the Sound of Islay is one of the best places to set off sea kayaking. The Sound is only 0.75km wide so you can really only go north or south. However you don't even need to make that decision as the tide will make it for you (5 knots at springs can be somewhat persuasive).

The scenery on the Sound is stunning with the Paps of Jura being the high point on the horizon.
A number of

A close encounter of the Bres kind en route to Lady Isle.

I set off from Culzean Bay at a very acceptable rare of knots. Sadly Tony's progress was only half of a very acceptable rate of knots. (BTW don't you just love that special "Vaseline on the lens" effect you get with waterproof cameras like the Pentax Optio?)

 The only decent thing to do was to stow the sail and let Tony catch up!

Although the town of Ayr was on the horizon, the coastline south

Three jewels of Loch Sunart: Oronsay, Loch Teacuis and a buried diamond!

A little breeze soon cleared the mist from Loch Drumbuie as we headed off on the third and final day of our circumnavigation of Morvern.

We left Loch Drumbuie by its west entrance as it was still low water and the shallow eastern entrance was still dry.

We were now on a mini circumnavigation of the tidal island Oronsay which divides Loch Drumbuie from Loch Sunart. There are several Oronsays

Sardines and showers in Tobermory.

On landing in Tobermory our first priority was not the Mishnish Bar but the  Fishermans Pier Fish & Chip Van. This has a considerable reputation for a decent fish supper. It was recommended in the Independent's top 50 fish and chip shops last Saturday and even has a  "Les Routiers" award. The fish is cooked to order (as are the frozen chips) so there is a short wait, which always carries the

Tobermory, what's the story?

We followed the Morven coast for a further 1.5km north of Caisteal nan Con before we crossed the Sound of Mull to the Mull coast. The Sound carries a lot of shipping traffic so we chose to cross at its narrowest point in these parts. It was a relief to get out of the main shipping channel marked by the buoys. Several cruise ships had made their way up and down the channel just before we crossed.

A series of juxtapositions in the Sound of Mull.

North of Lochaline, the coastline of Morvern becomes much gentler  and is backed by large forestry plantations. It was to here the the last few St Kildans were evacuated in 1930. Those that were able worked in the forests. what a juxtaposition a St Kildan in a forest in Morvern! They had come from an island with no trees!

We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde

Clyde built: tough ships, tough people.

From Dumbarton we set off on the final leg of our Clyde paddle to Port Glasgow in a snow storm. At times the snow was falling so heavily that there was near zero visibility and we lost sight of the channel markers, even though they were only 600m apart. We were rather anxious not to be run over by a ship in the night, so we navigated by keeping to the north of the channel markers, then crossed

Bowling down the Clyde in the Comet's wake.

From Erskine we crossed to the north bank of the Clyde yet again. In the mid distance, Dumbarton Rock stood out darkly against the snowy mountains of Argyll beyond.

We were bound for Bowling at the entrance to the Forth and Clyde canal. The canal opened in 1790. We had to keep a high ferry angle as the ebb tide was fair bowling us along.

There are two sea lock gates but this one is no longer

Life and death on the Clyde.

From the former Yarrow's shipyard at Scotstoun we paddled to Renfrew on the south bank. This is one of the oldest ferry points on the Clyde. Higher up the river we had already encountered the old chain driven "Renfrew", which served the route as a vehicle ferry from  1952 until 1984. Vehicle traffic had steadily fallen since the construction of the Clyde tunnel upstream in 1963/64 and the Erskine

Duncan takes a final curtsy on the Clyde.

Back on the south side of the river Clyde, we passed Shieldhall and came to the King George the Fifth dock. Estuary control had already warned us that the coaster MV Boisterous was making her way up river to the KGV dock but she was already moored by the time we arrived. We had already seen her making her way up the Clyde when we left shuttle cars at Port Glasgow.

MV Boisterous is a 59m x 9m

Forward paddling, through the years, on the Clyde.

Beneath the Glasgow Tower, we came across the paddle steamer Waverley tied up for the winter.

She was built in 1947 at the A & J Inglis yard on the Clyde. We crunched through the ice...

...to take a closer look at her. She is the last sea going paddle steamer in the World and was built for the run from Craigendorran Pier down to the Clyde ports. Her summer season now extends round the UK's

The Clyde, a river of change.

From the Kingston Bridge we continued down the River Clyde towards the Clyde Arc bridge. It was completed in 2006 by Halcrow. It is a tied bowstring arch of steel box section, which supports a precast reinforced concrete deck. From this view, the Glasgow Tower (beyond the bridge) looked like an arrow set for launch from the Arc's bow!

The Arc crosses the Clyde at an angle and is therefore, quite

Winter has arrived on the Clyde.

The sun slipped away behind the Little Cumbrae and Arran.

We now started our crossing of the Hunterston shipping channel.
As we approached the Hunterston deep water ore terminal we could hear the noise of the grab cranes unloading the MV Red Gardenia.

She was built in 2005 and has a dead weight of 76,300tons. After unloading here for another 36 hours she left for she left for Port Skaw in

Only 40km from the City, escape to a Clyde wilderness.

As we left the lighthouse, the container ship MV Canopus J was making her way down the Firth of Clyde from Greenock to Bilbao. She was built in 2004 and measures 140m x 20m. She is equipped to carry dangerous cargo in hold 2.

Back at sea level we had time for a second luncheon and enjoyed the silence of our isolation and escape, from the everyday World...

...before hitting the sea again. As we

War and peace at Carraig nan Ron.

Carraig nan Ron (seal rock) is a navigational hazard to both the warships and civilian ships that ply Loch Long. It lies off the point which separates Loch Long from Loch Goil. The light beacon is operated by a solar panel. In the distance is the Royal Naval Armament Depot at Coulport. Unlike Glenmallan, which services surface warships, Coulport is specifically designed to service submarines

Two million barrels of crude in Loch Long.

 Leaving the Ark Royal we continued SW down Loch Long. As we cleared Cnap Point a Very Large Crude Carrier all but obliterated the view ahead.

She was an Indian owned ship called MT Ashna. She has a capacity of 2 million barrels of crude oil.

We met another kayaker who had launched just south of Glenmallan jetty.

Ashna was off loading her crude at the Finnart deep water oil terminal. A

HMS Ark Royal, final voyage to Scotland.

This is what we had come to see. HMS Ark Royal, the third in the Invincible class of light aircraft carriers.

She was launched in 1981 and commissioned in 1985. She weighs 22,000 tons and measures 210m by 36m.

She can carry up to 18 Harrier GR 6/7 aircraft. Her ramp is steeper (than that of her two earlier sister ships) to enhance the Harriers' take off performance. She is currently flagship of

Sea kayaking in search of the lost Ark.

Loch Long runs very straight and it is also very deep. It  has some of the finest deep water jetties in the World. From north of Ardgartan we could see a VLCC* berthed at the Finnart oil terminal some 9km away. But this was not what we were looking for.

We continued paddling down Loch Long under the high peaks of of Argyll...

...round which the mists still clung.

The NW shore of Loch Long is

Guaranteed seal sighting at Corrie, or your money back!

 We left Sannox to paddle down the east coast of Arran to the ferry terminal at Brodick.

 We were surrounded by torrential rainstorms...

which turned the sky black and chilled the air.

We always see a seal basking on the rocks at Corrie. In the distance the MV Stadiongracht, a 172m cargo boat, was making its way from Brodick Bay up the Clyde to Greenock.

Off Merkland Point, we got a great