My journey north to St Kilda started at 17:30 after work last Friday. It was a slow drive due to the number of caravans and motor homes heading north. These vehicles carry such evocative names as GT, Cheetah, Concorde (Mach 2 model), Monza, Le Mans etc. However, the road quietened after Fort William and by 21:30 I was watching the sun set behind Eilean Donan Castle.
I spent the night at Gordon
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St Kilda preview!
Looking back to Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and Boreray while en route to Hirta.
Tony and I had planned a week to St Kilda with Murty and Murdani on the MV Cuma at the beginning of June. We were both well pissed off when the University changed the dates of the exam season and we couldn't go. I was then completely gobsmacked when Gordon Brown phoned up and asked if I would like to go on a trip to St
Tony and I had planned a week to St Kilda with Murty and Murdani on the MV Cuma at the beginning of June. We were both well pissed off when the University changed the dates of the exam season and we couldn't go. I was then completely gobsmacked when Gordon Brown phoned up and asked if I would like to go on a trip to St
By paddle, sail and oar across Whiting Bay.
We now entered Whiting Bay and caught our first sign of the eponymous village, below the heights of Goatfell.
A large sea wall protects the attractive villas and just before we arrived it had been put to good use. The wake of the Troon to Larne had been crashing into it.
We continued to speed on our way under sail and..
...landed near Kingscross Point at the north end of Whiting Bay for...
..
A large sea wall protects the attractive villas and just before we arrived it had been put to good use. The wake of the Troon to Larne had been crashing into it.
We continued to speed on our way under sail and..
...landed near Kingscross Point at the north end of Whiting Bay for...
..
Raised beaches and a raised graveyard on Arran's west coast.
Once we had left Catacol, our view to the south was obscured by Rhuba Airigh Bheirig.
Past the headland, the view of the Kilbrannan Sound opened up and the Mull of Kintyre...
...stretched away to the south. The coastline near Leninmore is very rocky but low tide revealed some lovely sand.
Behind every possible landing beach on this stretch of coast, you will find a cluster of cottages built on
Past the headland, the view of the Kilbrannan Sound opened up and the Mull of Kintyre...
...stretched away to the south. The coastline near Leninmore is very rocky but low tide revealed some lovely sand.
Behind every possible landing beach on this stretch of coast, you will find a cluster of cottages built on
Away with the fairies and an unconformity on Arran!
Ahead of us, the Cock of Arran suddenly emerged into the sunshine from the thick mist of early morning.
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
A house on the hill in the Kyles of Bute.
Just north of Kames in the Kyles of Bute lies the delightful village of Tighnabruaich. Its Gaelic name means "house on the hill". Nowadays many houses tumble down the steep hill, almost on top of one another, right down to the shore. We wondered if this was a secret waterside entrance to the Burnside Bistro!
Tignabruaich has long been famed as a sailing centre. There are so many water users in
Tignabruaich has long been famed as a sailing centre. There are so many water users in
We came to Kames in the Kyles of Bute.
Rounding Ardlamont Point, we left Loch Fyne and came to the sheltered waters of the Kyles of Bute.
Unlike the rugged west coast of the Cowal peninsula, the countryside was much gentler, fertile farms and woodlands came right down to the shore.
We arrived at the settlement of Kames and a large sign caught our attention...
...so we decided to land and investigate further.
On the way up to the
Unlike the rugged west coast of the Cowal peninsula, the countryside was much gentler, fertile farms and woodlands came right down to the shore.
We arrived at the settlement of Kames and a large sign caught our attention...
...so we decided to land and investigate further.
On the way up to the
Morning mist in the Kyles of Bute
Early on an October morning, Phil and I drove over the high pass above the Kyles of Bute. The Burnt Islands were caught in a momentary blink of sunshine that managed to break through the thick mist.
We had left one car at Colintraive which is the mainland terminal for the ferry which runs over the Kyles to Bute...
...and drove over the narrow roads to Portavadie on the west coast of the Cowal
We had left one car at Colintraive which is the mainland terminal for the ferry which runs over the Kyles to Bute...
...and drove over the narrow roads to Portavadie on the west coast of the Cowal
The Sound of Tomorrow, Islay.
Port Askaig on the Sound of Islay is one of the best places to set off sea kayaking. The Sound is only 0.75km wide so you can really only go north or south. However you don't even need to make that decision as the tide will make it for you (5 knots at springs can be somewhat persuasive).
The scenery on the Sound is stunning with the Paps of Jura being the high point on the horizon.
A number of
The scenery on the Sound is stunning with the Paps of Jura being the high point on the horizon.
A number of
A peculiarly cold form of burnishment, in Port William.
The tide was ebbing fast from the little harbour of Port William. The village was planned and built in the 1770's by Sir William Maxwell of Monreith.
The harbour is one of very few on the west of Galloway and like most in the area it dries out. Although the sun was now rising in the sky, the roofs of the village houses were still covered in frost.
Our departure was watched over by "the Man"...
The harbour is one of very few on the west of Galloway and like most in the area it dries out. Although the sun was now rising in the sky, the roofs of the village houses were still covered in frost.
Our departure was watched over by "the Man"...
Swanning about in Oban.
Back in Oban harbour we came across...
...FV Lady Evelyn. Sadly she has seen better days. But possibly there is hope that she might see the high seas again.
We were now nearly back at our launch spot below McCaig's Folly and the Oban Distillery.
No sooner had we arrived, than we were closely inspected by the local customs inspector...
...in case we had any contraband luncheon left. Only when
...FV Lady Evelyn. Sadly she has seen better days. But possibly there is hope that she might see the high seas again.
We were now nearly back at our launch spot below McCaig's Folly and the Oban Distillery.
No sooner had we arrived, than we were closely inspected by the local customs inspector...
...in case we had any contraband luncheon left. Only when
Toberonochy, what's the story?
As the glassy calm waters of the Sound of Shuna slipped astern, we came across some scattered houses on the Luing shore.
We had come across the little village of Toberonochy which nestles round a small harbour.
Crystal Waters, a former Banff registered trawler (BF 209), was leaning against the harbour wall. She was decommissioned under the Fishing Vessels (Decommissioning) (Scotland) Scheme
We had come across the little village of Toberonochy which nestles round a small harbour.
Crystal Waters, a former Banff registered trawler (BF 209), was leaning against the harbour wall. She was decommissioned under the Fishing Vessels (Decommissioning) (Scotland) Scheme
Sardines and showers in Tobermory.
On landing in Tobermory our first priority was not the Mishnish Bar but the Fishermans Pier Fish & Chip Van. This has a considerable reputation for a decent fish supper. It was recommended in the Independent's top 50 fish and chip shops last Saturday and even has a "Les Routiers" award. The fish is cooked to order (as are the frozen chips) so there is a short wait, which always carries the
Tobermory, what's the story?
We followed the Morven coast for a further 1.5km north of Caisteal nan Con before we crossed the Sound of Mull to the Mull coast. The Sound carries a lot of shipping traffic so we chose to cross at its narrowest point in these parts. It was a relief to get out of the main shipping channel marked by the buoys. Several cruise ships had made their way up and down the channel just before we crossed.
Mines a bacon butty in Lochaline!
As the flood tide carried us up the Sound of Mull we came to the little village of Lochaline, which nestles on the west side of a narrow inlet that is only 90m wide.
The in going tide carried us through to Loch Aline at 7km/hr.
You need to be careful to keep out of the way of shipping in this very narrow and tidal channel. The Mull ferry, MV Loch Fyne passes through it nearly 30 times per day
The in going tide carried us through to Loch Aline at 7km/hr.
You need to be careful to keep out of the way of shipping in this very narrow and tidal channel. The Mull ferry, MV Loch Fyne passes through it nearly 30 times per day
Danger on the Solway
From the quayside of Kirkcudbright we took the ebb tide back down the River Dee to Kirkcudbright Bay.
We passed the Gallovidian III which is the Range Boat for the Dundrennan firing range sea danger area that extends for 24x33km along the Solway coast to the SE of Kirkcudbright. Telephone contacts for the range are: 0141 224 8501 (Range Officer) or 0141 224 8502 (Guard House).
The channel was
We passed the Gallovidian III which is the Range Boat for the Dundrennan firing range sea danger area that extends for 24x33km along the Solway coast to the SE of Kirkcudbright. Telephone contacts for the range are: 0141 224 8501 (Range Officer) or 0141 224 8502 (Guard House).
The channel was
Mad dogs and seakayakers smitten by the cold in the Tan.
Rounding Gull point at the south of Little Cumbrae island we now faced a 10km paddle into a cold NE breeze. The big chill had begun!
We sought some shelter by taking the inside passage between Little Cumbrae and Castle Island.
I wonder if a committee chose the name of this little and if so how many times they met?
Tony said hello to the caretaker's friendly but barking mad little dogs...
...
We sought some shelter by taking the inside passage between Little Cumbrae and Castle Island.
I wonder if a committee chose the name of this little and if so how many times they met?
Tony said hello to the caretaker's friendly but barking mad little dogs...
...
Five fingers and a long way to fish in Loch Linnhe.
The sun set long before we reached our shuttle car, which we had left just north of the Corran narrows on Loch Linnhe.
Looking back up the loch we got a fantastic view of Ben Nevis. Just below the summit you can see the infamous five finger gully which traps the unwary on their descent of the Ben.
An Irish trawler, W297 Caronia II, registered in Waterford, passed us as she was making her way
Looking back up the loch we got a fantastic view of Ben Nevis. Just below the summit you can see the infamous five finger gully which traps the unwary on their descent of the Ben.
An Irish trawler, W297 Caronia II, registered in Waterford, passed us as she was making her way
We paddled off into the sunset in Loch Linnhe.
The River Lochy discharged us into Loch Linnhe, which stretched away to the SW and the distant Corran Narrows.
We soon came to Fort William, Scotland's outdoor capital. The town is not just a tourist centre it is also an unpretentious working place and so is not, perhaps, one of the most scenic of coastal towns. It is hemmed in to a narrow ribbon of land by Loch Linnhe on one side and Ben Nevis
We soon came to Fort William, Scotland's outdoor capital. The town is not just a tourist centre it is also an unpretentious working place and so is not, perhaps, one of the most scenic of coastal towns. It is hemmed in to a narrow ribbon of land by Loch Linnhe on one side and Ben Nevis
Luncheon on a gravel bed in the River Lochy.
The sea lock of the Caledonian Canal opens to Loch Linnhe beside Corpach pier.
For a little while, the canal follows the shore and we paddled below some fishing boats.
We now crossed the head of loch Linnhe towards...
... Fort William. Unfortunately we turned left instead of right.
The first warning of our mistake was that the kayaks' seam lines were closer to the water, and talking of water,
For a little while, the canal follows the shore and we paddled below some fishing boats.
We now crossed the head of loch Linnhe towards...
... Fort William. Unfortunately we turned left instead of right.
The first warning of our mistake was that the kayaks' seam lines were closer to the water, and talking of water,
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