The morning dawned fair. We were all feeling a bit tired after our paddle to Dun the previous evening...
...so we decided to spend the morning exploring the village.
We waited to meet the National Trust for Scotland warden at the pier head and he introduced us to the island.
We started at the feather store...
...then moved to the gun that was installed after a German U boat had shelled the
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Arrival at Hirta, St Kilda.
From Boreray and the Stacs, MV Cuma motored towards Hirta and Soay, which are the two largest islands in the St Kilda archipelago. The next two by size are Boreray and Dun. The cliffs falling from the summit of Connachair (at 430m, the high point on Hirta) are the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles.
As Cuma made her way round the east side of Hirta, we caught sight of the jagged outline of
As Cuma made her way round the east side of Hirta, we caught sight of the jagged outline of
Navigational aids in the Sound of Islay.
The tide in the Sound of Islay whisked us south to the Carrag an t-Sruith lighthouse. Unfortunately it was not big enough to have its name painted on the side, thus somewhat hindering its navigational usefulness.
Useful though white painted lighthouses may be to navigators, we noticed a much more interesting building on the far side of the Sound, which was also painted white.
This one is quite
Useful though white painted lighthouses may be to navigators, we noticed a much more interesting building on the far side of the Sound, which was also painted white.
This one is quite
A reputation for midges in West Loch Tarbert, Jura.
West Loch Tarbert on Jura is always worth a visit with its raised beaches,....
...dykes, arches and caves.
It is a wild place but it is not totally without sight of the hand of man. Glenbatrick Lodge is the holiday cottage of Lord Astor. It sits on the south shore under the slopes of Beinn Shiantaidh, 757m, one of the Paps of Jura.
There were some delightful sandy shores backed by raised
...dykes, arches and caves.
It is a wild place but it is not totally without sight of the hand of man. Glenbatrick Lodge is the holiday cottage of Lord Astor. It sits on the south shore under the slopes of Beinn Shiantaidh, 757m, one of the Paps of Jura.
There were some delightful sandy shores backed by raised
Smoking in church on Nave Island
We now left the wild north shore of Islay and...
...set off across the broad mouth of Loch Gruinart. On the far side of the loch low lying Ardnave Point stretched out below the bold headland of Ton Mor. We hoped to round it in the morning when we would be well on the way to the west coast of the Rhinns of Islay.
We were bound for Nave Island which floated on a sparkling sea.
Our crossing was
...set off across the broad mouth of Loch Gruinart. On the far side of the loch low lying Ardnave Point stretched out below the bold headland of Ton Mor. We hoped to round it in the morning when we would be well on the way to the west coast of the Rhinns of Islay.
We were bound for Nave Island which floated on a sparkling sea.
Our crossing was
A lonely sheiling on the north coast of Islay.
Above the beach at Port an t-Sruthain on the North coast of Islay, we found a natural amphitheatre surrounded by the cliff line of the raised beach. At the focal point are the remains of an old sheiling. The tinkling of a stream, cascading down the cliffs, explained the Gaelic name of the beach, “Port of the Stream”.
It would have been a hard life eking out a living here. In the distance, low
It would have been a hard life eking out a living here. In the distance, low
Several short sunny days on a sojourn to the Solway .
At the end of April and beginning of May, I enjoyed a fantastic holiday on Fleet Bay in the Solway Firth. Each day dawned sunny...
...and the calm days were spent exploring the Islands of Fleet.
Thee Murray's Isles have a large cormorant colony which is surrounded by a gull colony. I was saddened to see a noisy party in 4 SOT/recreational kayaks paddle close under the rocks. The cormorants all
...and the calm days were spent exploring the Islands of Fleet.
Thee Murray's Isles have a large cormorant colony which is surrounded by a gull colony. I was saddened to see a noisy party in 4 SOT/recreational kayaks paddle close under the rocks. The cormorants all
If it was good enough for a Royal to kip down, it'll be good enough for us!
By the time we arrived at Dougarie estate boathouse, it was 18:25 and pouring with rain.
We continued south and thankfully the rain stopped an hour later.
We now set across the broad expanse of Machrie Bay. We were bound for the headland below Torr Righ Mor, still some 6km distant.
As we approached the headland, the setting sun lit it in a last blaze of sunshine.
From the rocks below Torr
We continued south and thankfully the rain stopped an hour later.
We now set across the broad expanse of Machrie Bay. We were bound for the headland below Torr Righ Mor, still some 6km distant.
As we approached the headland, the setting sun lit it in a last blaze of sunshine.
From the rocks below Torr
An early supper with the Twelve Apostles
Upon leaving Loch Ranza, a pesky head wind got up and as we were by now getting hungry (it was past midday)...
...we were delighted to come across the Catacol Bay Hotel. It enjoys a magnificent situation under Meall nan Damh (570m) but it looked a bit run down. However we were cold and hungry...
...so we landed on the awkward stony beach and made our way up to the hotel.
The welcome was warm,
...we were delighted to come across the Catacol Bay Hotel. It enjoys a magnificent situation under Meall nan Damh (570m) but it looked a bit run down. However we were cold and hungry...
...so we landed on the awkward stony beach and made our way up to the hotel.
The welcome was warm,
Away with the fairies and an unconformity on Arran!
Ahead of us, the Cock of Arran suddenly emerged into the sunshine from the thick mist of early morning.
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
White like a swan...
From the foghorn we made our way back to the lighthouse.
It is now fully automatic and solar powered.
Unlike some lighthouses, it still has a proper lens system. This rotate continuously, even during day time, for increased reliability.
The lighthouse itself is immaculately maintained with gleaming whitewash...
...but sadly, the former keeper's cottages have fallen into disrepair after the NLB
It is now fully automatic and solar powered.
Unlike some lighthouses, it still has a proper lens system. This rotate continuously, even during day time, for increased reliability.
The lighthouse itself is immaculately maintained with gleaming whitewash...
...but sadly, the former keeper's cottages have fallen into disrepair after the NLB
A great bellowing on Ailsa Craig.
We heard the bellowing long before we came to the south foghorn on Ailsa Craig.
It obviously wasn't coming from the foghorn as it has been silent since 1966. We passed a row of nine massive but rusting compressed air tanks that provided the "oomph" for the horn. They were supplied by a 2.5" inch pipe that ran 700m from the compressor in the gasworks round to the south of the island.
The air
It obviously wasn't coming from the foghorn as it has been silent since 1966. We passed a row of nine massive but rusting compressed air tanks that provided the "oomph" for the horn. They were supplied by a 2.5" inch pipe that ran 700m from the compressor in the gasworks round to the south of the island.
The air
The missing anvil of Ailsa Craig.
After the gasworks we came to the quarry man's house. I stayed here for nearly a week in the summer of 1973.
We continued south to the old forge buildings. They were relatively intact in 1973 but have been demolished to reclaim their granite blocks.
Somewhere I have an old transparency of the huge anvil but despite its size, there was no sign of it now.
The old bellows from the forge were
We continued south to the old forge buildings. They were relatively intact in 1973 but have been demolished to reclaim their granite blocks.
Somewhere I have an old transparency of the huge anvil but despite its size, there was no sign of it now.
The old bellows from the forge were
Gasworks and kailyards on Ailsa Craig.
From Ailsa Craig pier we made our way up the old railway to the tacksman's house.
In the19th century the tacksman and assistants who lived here harvested the seabirds for flesh, eggs and feathers and caught rabbits that thrived because they had no natural predators. They also fished the seas that were teeming with fish.
Behind the cottage a large area is walled off. Inside is the gasworks with
In the19th century the tacksman and assistants who lived here harvested the seabirds for flesh, eggs and feathers and caught rabbits that thrived because they had no natural predators. They also fished the seas that were teeming with fish.
Behind the cottage a large area is walled off. Inside is the gasworks with
A little rusty on Ailsa Craig.
From the shore of Ailsa Craig, we made our way up past the now solar powered (2001) and automated (1990) lighthouse.
The lighthouse was completed in 1886 by Thomas and David Stevenson. It originally had 3 keepers and was an oil burning light. A little railway was used to haul cans of oil up from the jetty. Unfortunately the bogey was now overturned and rusting away. The railway was also used by
The lighthouse was completed in 1886 by Thomas and David Stevenson. It originally had 3 keepers and was an oil burning light. A little railway was used to haul cans of oil up from the jetty. Unfortunately the bogey was now overturned and rusting away. The railway was also used by
Death in Ardlamont.
We paddled towards the mouth of Loch Fyne along a raised beach until we came to...
...Kilbride Bay. The sad remains of a dead whale lay beached on the shore. The smell of death hung so heavy in the air that we could not approach closer to investigate its species. We paddled over huge detatched ribs with flesh still attached, that lay under the clear waters below its final resting place.
The
...Kilbride Bay. The sad remains of a dead whale lay beached on the shore. The smell of death hung so heavy in the air that we could not approach closer to investigate its species. We paddled over huge detatched ribs with flesh still attached, that lay under the clear waters below its final resting place.
The
Toberonochy, what's the story?
As the glassy calm waters of the Sound of Shuna slipped astern, we came across some scattered houses on the Luing shore.
We had come across the little village of Toberonochy which nestles round a small harbour.
Crystal Waters, a former Banff registered trawler (BF 209), was leaning against the harbour wall. She was decommissioned under the Fishing Vessels (Decommissioning) (Scotland) Scheme
We had come across the little village of Toberonochy which nestles round a small harbour.
Crystal Waters, a former Banff registered trawler (BF 209), was leaning against the harbour wall. She was decommissioned under the Fishing Vessels (Decommissioning) (Scotland) Scheme
Sardines and showers in Tobermory.
On landing in Tobermory our first priority was not the Mishnish Bar but the Fishermans Pier Fish & Chip Van. This has a considerable reputation for a decent fish supper. It was recommended in the Independent's top 50 fish and chip shops last Saturday and even has a "Les Routiers" award. The fish is cooked to order (as are the frozen chips) so there is a short wait, which always carries the
Tobermory, what's the story?
We followed the Morven coast for a further 1.5km north of Caisteal nan Con before we crossed the Sound of Mull to the Mull coast. The Sound carries a lot of shipping traffic so we chose to cross at its narrowest point in these parts. It was a relief to get out of the main shipping channel marked by the buoys. Several cruise ships had made their way up and down the channel just before we crossed.
A series of juxtapositions in the Sound of Mull.
North of Lochaline, the coastline of Morvern becomes much gentler and is backed by large forestry plantations. It was to here the the last few St Kildans were evacuated in 1930. Those that were able worked in the forests. what a juxtaposition a St Kildan in a forest in Morvern! They had come from an island with no trees!
We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde
We found Fiunary boathouse in a little inlet beside Rhubha na h-Airde
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