No sooner had secured the kayaks and set off from Miavaig in Loch Roag than Gordon demonstrated the berthing accommodation for those travelling steerage class. Fortunately we had all booked berths in the Cuma's cabins!
We soon left the great strand of Traigh na Beirigh in our wake...
...as we passed Bhacasaigh and... ...in the distance Seana Chnoc.
Simon started filming the trip in the
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Swanning about and an invasion of privacy in the Sound of Islay.
There are very many opportunities to wild camp on the Jura shore of the Sound of Islay. Basalt dykes at right angles to the shore create innumerable secluded coves.
Unfortunately one of the prime sites was already occupied, so not wanting to invade any one's privacy, we turned back a little way.
We soon found a lesser bay and we decided to just make do with second best as the sun was setting
Unfortunately one of the prime sites was already occupied, so not wanting to invade any one's privacy, we turned back a little way.
We soon found a lesser bay and we decided to just make do with second best as the sun was setting
Swept round the point or sea trout for breakfast?
Retreating from the Rhinns of Islay, we arrived back at the sand dunes of Ardnave Point. We paddled round into the sheltered mouth of Gruinart Bay where we enjoyed a very pleasant second breakfast. The local seals were hunting hunting sea trout in the river channel. If we had carried on round the Rhinns, we would have, by then, been in the clutches of the tide, being carried towards some of the
The dykes of the north coast of Islay.
All too soon, the tidal assistance came to an end when we rounded the point below the Rhuvaal lighthouse.
Sadly, the original lantern and rotating lens of this beautiful lighthouse has been replaced by what looks like a 100 Watt bulb on the end of a pole! However, the stonework of the tower has recently been painted and it was looking very well maintained.
From Rhuvaal we turned westwards
Sadly, the original lantern and rotating lens of this beautiful lighthouse has been replaced by what looks like a 100 Watt bulb on the end of a pole! However, the stonework of the tower has recently been painted and it was looking very well maintained.
From Rhuvaal we turned westwards
Sailing into the lee of Holy Island by sea kayak.
From Kingscross Point we crosssed the southern entrance of Lamlash Bay to the south end of Holy Island.
The brisk crossing was rewarded with a wonderful view from the Holy Island inner light into Lamlash Bay and the Arran mountains beyond. Since 2008 the north part of Lamlash Bay has been a protected marine reserve with a complete ban on commercial and recreational fishing. The great news is
The brisk crossing was rewarded with a wonderful view from the Holy Island inner light into Lamlash Bay and the Arran mountains beyond. Since 2008 the north part of Lamlash Bay has been a protected marine reserve with a complete ban on commercial and recreational fishing. The great news is
Running before the wind, below the sill.
Leaving Kildonan on the fourth day of our trip round Arran we hoisted our sails then paddled along a wild coastline. The scenery was dominated by an extensive tertiary sill, which extended...
...all the way to Dippen Head where we were...
...dwarfed by the scale of the cliffs.
Once round Dippen Head, we caught our first sight of Holy Island since the first day of our trip. We continued to sail
...all the way to Dippen Head where we were...
...dwarfed by the scale of the cliffs.
Once round Dippen Head, we caught our first sight of Holy Island since the first day of our trip. We continued to sail
A big cave and big appetites at Kildonan, Arran
From the sadly deserted beach at Cleit Shore we sped past huge boulder beaches until a dramatic change in the landscape announced our arrival at Bennan Head, which marks the southern tip of Arran.
Just offshore lies Pladda which is the second biggest of Arran's three satellite isles: Holy Island, then Pladda, then tiny Hamilton Isle.
We were sailing and paddling at 9-10km per hour and David
Just offshore lies Pladda which is the second biggest of Arran's three satellite isles: Holy Island, then Pladda, then tiny Hamilton Isle.
We were sailing and paddling at 9-10km per hour and David
A distinct lack of nudists at Cleits Shore.
The SW shore of Arran is superficially less dramatic than its neighbours. A boulder beach is backed by a raised beach which in turn is backed by a line of now dry wave cut cliffs. However, a series of basalt dykes run out to sea for distances of up to a kilometre from the shore.
They are particularly prominent in the region of the Cleits Shore, where they extend for a considerable distance,
They are particularly prominent in the region of the Cleits Shore, where they extend for a considerable distance,
Up and doon the Doon, before breakfast!
The third day of our round Arran trip dawned grey but dry. We had camped beneath a dramatic tertiary sill called the Doon.
Over a cup of fresh brewed coffee...
...David suggested trying to get to the top. The volcanic sill had been used as an Iron Age fort more than 2,000 years ago. Today its only inhabitants were fulmars, which were nesting high on its inaccessible ledges.
We cut across
Over a cup of fresh brewed coffee...
...David suggested trying to get to the top. The volcanic sill had been used as an Iron Age fort more than 2,000 years ago. Today its only inhabitants were fulmars, which were nesting high on its inaccessible ledges.
We cut across
Away with the fairies and an unconformity on Arran!
Ahead of us, the Cock of Arran suddenly emerged into the sunshine from the thick mist of early morning.
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
All was grey looking back along the north shore of Arran.
High above us, the mountains were still wreathed in mist.
We now paddling west past beaches dominated by giant boulders.
This part of Arran is known as Fairy Dell.
It was seen as the entrance to another World, a World inhabited by
The lack of a saw was like a millstone round our necks.
After leaving Sannox we set off along the wild north coast of Arran. There are no roads and only a rough footpath gives land access here.
We passed below the Fallen Rocks, which is a site of a relatively recent landslide of Upper Old Red Sandstone conglomerate blocks.
We arrived at the appropriately named Millstone Point. There was a quarry for millstones above the beach.
The sun had set by
We passed below the Fallen Rocks, which is a site of a relatively recent landslide of Upper Old Red Sandstone conglomerate blocks.
We arrived at the appropriately named Millstone Point. There was a quarry for millstones above the beach.
The sun had set by
A quick shag on Ailsa Craig.
It was now time to paddle round Ailsa Craig. We had arranged to meet Alan and Linda from the Castle Craig Kayak Club. We set off anticlockwise, past the walkway round to the north foghorn and quarry.
We emerged from the darkness under the cliffs of Eagle's Seat...
...followed by this grey seal. "Look at the eyebrows on that!"
Jim was delighted with how the borrowed Taran performed, responding
We emerged from the darkness under the cliffs of Eagle's Seat...
...followed by this grey seal. "Look at the eyebrows on that!"
Jim was delighted with how the borrowed Taran performed, responding
Clear seas full of sprats, off Ardlamont Point
The Cowal peninsula has some really great bays. This is Kilbride Bay, which was very atmospheric with the mist lying low over the hills and forests.
Off Rhuba na Peileig the sea was boiling with large shoals of sprats.
Just round the point, we came across this lovely...
...beach of cobbles.
It was now time for our first luncheon.
We sat on these wonderful whorled rocks. I found a very nice
Off Rhuba na Peileig the sea was boiling with large shoals of sprats.
Just round the point, we came across this lovely...
...beach of cobbles.
It was now time for our first luncheon.
We sat on these wonderful whorled rocks. I found a very nice
The Devil's bridge of Burrow Head.
Due to lost time on the shuttle, we had started a little later than planned. We still needed to meet the tidal window at Burrow Head and so we skipped first luncheon, carrying on towards the Head.
Close to the head, a strong counter eddy forms in the last 2 hours of both the flood and the ebb, particularly so at springs. This means that "slack water" close under the rocks occurs when the main
Close to the head, a strong counter eddy forms in the last 2 hours of both the flood and the ebb, particularly so at springs. This means that "slack water" close under the rocks occurs when the main
All the essential sea kayaking elements round Morvern.
As we approached the head of Loch Sunart we came to the Liddesdale narrows. It was spring tides and the ebb rate runs out at 3.5 knots. We arrived at slack HW and negotiated entrance to the inner loch with minimal effort.
Garbh Bheinn (Garven) 885m dominated the view to the head of the loch. It is one of the highest mountains in Ardgour which borders the Morvern peninsula to the north.
The wind
Garbh Bheinn (Garven) 885m dominated the view to the head of the loch. It is one of the highest mountains in Ardgour which borders the Morvern peninsula to the north.
The wind
Sea kayaking under the west coast cliffs of Garbh Eileach.
The NW coast of the Garvellachs is a wild place. It is not often possible to paddle in close due to the swell that seems to be amplified as it rolls up the narrowing Firth of Lorn from the Atlantic.We proceeded under the steep tillite (metamorphosed glacial deposits) cliffs of Garbh Eileach.The cliffs are almost continuous until......we reached a break before the next island in the chain, A'
Guirasdeal, a miniature Scarba!
On leaving Lunga we approached the fair isle of Guirasdeal and Scarba beyond. It is like a miniature Scarba. One wonders what sort of cataclysmic geological events shaped this wonderful little isle.We often take a break on its steep cobble beach but I knew my knee could not stand a landing there. At this point we had to decide whether to return to the Sound of Jura via the Grey Dogs (over
Made in Scotland from girders and glaciers.
We now entered the outer part of Loch Etive. The loch stretches away for 30km into the mountains, where it becomes the most fjord like of the Scottish sea lochs. It was cut by a massive glacier that gouged a U shaped trench through the mountains and was flooded by the sea when the glacier melted.At the Connel narrows the view is dominated by the Connel bridge. It was built in 1903 to take the
Luncheon below a volcano.
We turned north east from the mouth of Loch Feochan and entered the Sound of Kerrera which would take us to Oban harbour.The steep rocks that rise from the shore of the sound show much evidence of volcanic activity.Indeed we could see that Dun Ormidale is a former volcanic vent. There is an Iron Age fort on its summit, which takes advantage of its natural defensive structure.We decided to stop
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